I’ve been asked several times recently if I can create some lingerie using entirely natural fibres. I fully understand the draw towards natural fibres, they’re wonderful to wear, generally long lasting (in the right circumstances) and they signify quality. Natural fibres such as cotton and silk can also better for people with sensitive skin, so surely it makes perfect sense to use this wonderful natural fibres for intimate apparel? Perhaps not..
The Delicate Nature of Natural Fibres
Natural fibres, while beautiful, present significant challenges in the realm of lingerie and shapewear. Fine materials such as silk and cotton are incredibly delicate, especially when subjected to the stress of multiple seams and the pressure of being worn as shapewear garments. For instance, silk, though exquisite, is prone to damage from even the finest sewing machine needles and can quickly become threadbare and worn out. This fragility results in a much shorter lifespan compared to synthetic fibres, which are designed to endure such strains.
The Stretch Factor
One of the key requirements for lingerie, and shapewear in particular, is elasticity. Natural fibres generally lack the stretch needed for these garments to fit comfortably and function effectively. While some natural fibres do offer a degree of stretch, they often fail to rebound fully to their original shape once removed. This lack of resilience can lead to garments that don't conform well to the body or lose their shape over time.
The Fixed Fit of Vintage Styles
There are some examples of cotton and silk vintage lingerie, the loose fitting Kestos style bra and tap pants crafted from World War II silk escape maps are perhaps a best known example. You may also see examples of narrow suspender belts made entirely of cotton. While these can be crafted, they come with their own limitations. These designs offer a fixed fit that doesn’t naturally move with the movements of the wearer, making them quite uncomfortable by modern standards.
Escape map silk lingerie set, from the Underpinnings Museum Collection
The Rise of Nylon
Enter nylon, a ground breaking development in fabric technology. Introduced in the early 20th century, nylon revolutionized the lingerie industry. Unlike natural fibres, nylon can be highly elastic, allowing it to stretch and recover its shape perfectly. This makes it perfect for lingerie and shapewear. Additionally, nylon is much more resistant to damage from sewing and everyday wear, it can be washed in the machine regularly and shows little sign of wear, making a longer-lasting alternative to delicate natural fibres.
Nylon’s ability to combine strength with flexibility has made it the go-to fabric for modern lingerie. It meets the demands of stretch and durability while maintaining a sleek appearance that natural fibres struggle to offer in this context.
